Avoid problems before they start by taking these precautions on walks:
1. Use a 4-6 ft leash
A leash is the most important safety tool any dog walker has. Retractable leashes, which can change length based on the click of a button, mean that the radius wherein a dog can go is not fixed. And that defeats the major purpose of having your dog on a leash to begin with. Also: many retractable leashes are made of very thin cords, which can snap or twist. And these leashes have a snapping mechanism, of which I’m not a fan: Their retractability means that if dropped, it can snap towards the dog –which usually means a big plastic handle hurdling toward the dog’s face. Or, better case scenario, if you drop it, it’ll hit the ground with a bang. Either way, it can spook a dog, causing him to run. It’s more dangerous than if you just accidentally drop a nylon leash for a second. While a leash of this sort might be a nice way for a dog to have some autonomy on, say, a rural trail, I think they have no place on a city street. If you must use a leash like this, keep it in a locked position at all times. We like rope leashes.
2. Attach the leash to both a harness and a collar
If you are using a collar and a harness, clip your dog’s leash to both.
3. Consider walking your dog in a muzzle
If you have any fear of your dog biting, or if your dog is a garbage eater, invest in a muzzle. Many people resist muzzles. But city streets are places where unexpected things can happen, and dogs who are scared are likely to bite. if you have even the smallest fear that your dog might nip another dog or a person on the street, or if you worry about your dog ingesting cigarette butts, a muzzle is a must. We recommend basket muzzles such as the Baskerville Muzzle or an Italian Basket Muzzle (for dogs with more slender and longer snouts).
4. Choose your walking path wisely
To reduce walking stress, pick strolling paths that are as open as possible. There are a million things that could happen on a city street that could spook a dog, most of which you cannot control. The best you can do is try to guess what’s going to be the quietest route — the one with the fewest people and strollers and honking cars and delivery guys riding on the sidewalk.
Bonus points for walking on the building-side of the sidewalk, rather than by the curb. If your dog does get loose, that extra two or three feet will mean a little bit more of a buffer area where you might be able to grab him before he enters traffic.
5. Always ask for a “sit” at the curb
Your dog can have different cues for “sit”. One might be the word “sit.” One might be a hand single. And one should be a visual, environmental cue: The sight of a curb. Every time you get to any curb, cue your dog into a sit (use a food lure if you need to — do whatever you need to do get their butt on the ground). You can then either reward the sit with a food treat, or with the real life reward of the opportunity to get up and keep walking when you say “Okay.” With enough repetition, your dog will associate the curb with sitting and it won’t be something that you even have to ask for. The goal here, of course, is that, if ever given the opportunity to cross a street off leash, he will first sit and wait for your signal to go.
6. Carry treats
When you have a dog, you’re not just training him to behave properly on the street — you are training people to behave properly, too. “Proper” might be different to different people. My ex, for example, will never let anyone touch a dog when on a walk. “Would you let someone pet a baby?” he says. My rules aren’t so stringent. I want my dog to be able to interact with people. But, I do think that people do a lot of improper things when greeting unknown dogs on the street. They often get in a dog’s face, which is rude, or pick up a dog, which can be dangerous and unpleasant to the dog. They squeal and kiss, neither of which is necessarily polite in the dog world. The best way to avoid these kinds of interactions? When a person shows interest in your dog, hand him a treat and ask him to give it to your dog. Your dog shouldn’t have to sit for it, or do anything for that matter. The “trick” they’re being rewarded for is just the behavior of co-existing with a new human. It’ll help your dog build good associations with that kind of person (be it a giddy child, man with cane, or a woman with beard), and will give the person a safe way to interact with the dog.
7. Communicate with people on the street before letting them, or their dog, approach your dog
Dogs can’t talk, but we can. Before you let your dog greet another dog, ask the owner if their dog is friendly. Plenty of dogs can’t do safe leash greetings with other dogs on the street, but that doesn’t mean everyone involved can’t leave the situation safely. Just ask: “Is it okay if my dog says ‘Hi?’ to your dog?” If the human says “No,” it’s probably not because he or she is an asshole. It’s because they’re looking out for their dog’s safety. And for your dog’s safety. And yours! That kind of person deserves a treat.
Likewise, many dogs don’t want to be pet by strangers. The best way to judge if a situation is safe is simply to thank people when they do ask, “May I pet your dog?” Reward this behavior in humans, and more people will do it. And we will all be rewarded by creating a world where there are fewer dead puppies to cry about.
Originally published on schoolforthedogs.com